In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, few trends have as storied and surprising a history as the thigh-high boot. While the recent sighting of Swedish actor Alexander Skarsgård in a pair of Saint Laurent’s Fall-Winter 2025 boots at the Cannes Film Festival has reignited the conversation, the journey of this iconic footwear is far from a recent phenomenon. From medieval warriors to modern-day celebrities, the thigh-high boot has traversed centuries, genders, and cultural norms, emerging as a symbol of both fashion and defiance.
A Historical Journey Through Fashion
The origins of the thigh-high boot can be traced back to the 15th century, where they were predominantly worn by men. Far from being a fashion statement, these boots were practical necessities for sailors, fishermen, and laborers who needed protection from water and mud. A notable example is the medieval skeleton discovered in London’s River Thames in 2018, believed to be a sailor or fisherman whose thigh-high boots suggested he was working in the water at the time of his death.
By the Restoration period in England, these boots had transitioned from purely functional to fashionable. King Charles I and his cavalrymen, known as Cavaliers, popularized the riding-style leather boots. Often complete with a heel that signified status, these boots could be extended to reach the upper thighs or folded down into cuffs. During this era, the boot was far from being perceived as a sexy or feminine accessory; it was a symbol of masculinity and power.
The Shift to Feminine Fashion
The perception of thigh-high boots as a feminine and sexy accessory emerged in the 1960s, a decade marked by significant cultural and sartorial changes. The post-war "Youthquake" brought about a revolution in fashion, with hemlines rising and attitudes towards sexuality becoming more liberated. In this context, the thigh-high boot became a perfect complement to the miniskirt, framing the bare leg in a way that was both daring and alluring.
In 1962, fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga introduced a knee-high boot on the runway, but it was shoe designer Roger Vivier who truly elevated the style. In 1963, Vivier designed a thigh-high silhouette for Yves Saint Laurent’s collection, crafted in alligator leather. Vogue magazine captured the zeitgeist, reporting, "Ankle-deep, knee-high, and even up to the thigh. This year’s best-looking legs will be marching up and down and back again in boots."
Iconic Moments in Cinema
The 1960s and 1970s saw thigh-high boots become a staple in cinematic fashion, often used to convey a sense of seduction and empowerment. In "Mr. and Mrs. Smith" (2005), Angelina Jolie famously wore thigh-high boots with fishnets, suspenders, and a strapless PVC minidress as she impersonated an escort. Similarly, Julia Roberts wore them in "Pretty Woman" (1990), and Jane Fonda donned a pair in her racy rendition of "Barbarella" in the 1960s. In "The Devil Wears Prada" (2006), Anne Hathaway’s character Andy Sachs reaches an aesthetic apotheosis when she slips on a pair of knee-high, hosiery-style leather boots, a moment that has become one of the most satisfying in cinematic history.
The Modern Revival
Fast forward to the 21st century, and the thigh-high boot is experiencing a remarkable revival, this time transcending gender norms. Alexander Skarsgård’s appearance at the Cannes Film Festival in Saint Laurent’s Fall-Winter 2025 boots is just one example of how men are reclaiming this iconic footwear. Skarsgård’s boots, styled by Harry Lambert, were a jaw-dropping statement that challenged traditional notions of masculinity in fashion.
Skarsgård is not alone in this trend. Actor Pedro Pascal donned the same Saint Laurent boots in March, and fashion labels such as Rick Owens, Martine Rose, Givenchy, Maison Margiela, and GmbH have all designed their own versions. This revival is part of a broader movement towards gender-neutral fashion, where traditional gender roles are being redefined and challenged.
The Cultural Impact
The return of the thigh-high boot is more than just a fashion trend; it is a cultural statement. In a world where gender norms are increasingly fluid, these boots represent a bold assertion of individuality and self-expression. They challenge the binary perceptions of fashion, encouraging both men and women to explore styles that were once considered exclusive to the opposite gender.
Moreover, the thigh-high boot’s journey from medieval necessity to modern-day fashion statement underscores the cyclical nature of fashion. What was once a practical choice for men has become a symbol of feminine allure and, now, a gender-neutral expression of style. This evolution highlights the adaptability and resilience of fashion trends, as well as the enduring appeal of the thigh-high boot.
Embracing the Future of Fashion
As we welcome daring gentlemen dressers who are open to slipping on a pair of ballet flats and Mary Janes, the over-the-knee boot is nothing more than a logical next step. The thigh-high boot’s rich history and its current revival are a testament to the power of fashion to evolve, adapt, and challenge societal norms. Whether worn by medieval sailors, 1960s femme fatales, or modern-day actors, the thigh-high boot remains a timeless and transformative piece of footwear.
In a world where fashion is increasingly about self-expression and breaking boundaries, the thigh-high boot stands as a symbol of courage and creativity. It invites us to challenge our perceptions, embrace our individuality, and step into the future with confidence and style.
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